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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.